Tony,if the engine is still in the doner vehicle this will be simple. There is indeed a bunch of wires going into and out of the distributer but every one of them go to a control module which is mounted to the firewall or fender. At the module you will find a second pig tail plug with 2 or 3 wires that go elsewhere. Unplug that 2 or 3 wire plug. As a measure of safty disable starter at solinoid. Turn the ignition switch to the on/run position. With volt meter black lead on engine for a ground,test for 12 volts inside the plug you removed from control module with red meter lead. That is run and will conect to wire that supplies 12 volts on 302 coil. Have a helper hold ignition switch to start position. Test for 12 volts as before. That is start and gos to start post of ignition or starter side of solinoid so that it recieves 12v only while engine is cranking. Turn ignition off. If there is a 3rd wire,test it at ohm setting for o resistance to engine block which would be simply a ground wire. Reconnect tested plug to module,clip wires off 8 inches back,leave other wires from module to distributor connected. Unbolt module from fender and zip tie it along with bundled wires to intake manifold. That's it.
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Today's Featured Article - Grain Threshing in the Early 40's - by Jerry D. Coleman. How many of you can sit there and say that you have plowed with a mule? Well I would say not many, but maybe a few. This story is about the day my Grandfather Brown (true name) decided along with my parents to purchase a new Ford tractor. It wasn't really new except to us. The year was about 1967 and my father found a good used Ford 601 tractor to use on the farm instead of "Bob", our old mule. Now my grandfather had had this mule since the mid 40's and he was getting some age on him. S
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