The original solenoid has one end of the solenoid winding connected to one of the big BAT posts. The small terminal connects to the other end of the solenoid winding and completes the circuit when you ground that small terminal through the button switch.
When you install one of those "ground to activate" solenoids, make sure you connect the battery cable to the solenoid post marked "BAT", that is the one with the solenoid winding connected to it. If you acidently switch the battery and starter connections, the solenoid will not function.
I repowered a 48 model F6 with a modern 12V engine and wanted to keep the starter solenoid with the extra terminal for the ignition resistor bypass. I made it work with the original grounding button switch by mounting the solenoid base on an insulated wood block on the firewall. I jumpered the small "S" post to the big "BAT" post and connected the Starter button wire to the foot of the solenoid. It worked great with the grounding starter button and I had the "hot start terminal for better starting ignition.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning-Up Your Tractor: Plugs & Compression Testing - by Curtis Von Fange. The engine seems to run rough. In the exhaust you can hear an occasion 'poofing' sound like somethings not firing on all cylinders. Under loaded conditions the tractor seems to lack power and it belches black smoke out of the exhaust. For some reason it just doesn't want to start up without cranking and cranking the starter. All these conditions can be signals that your unit is in need of a tune up. Ok, so what is involved in a tune up? You say, swap plugs and file the points....now tha
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