The original solenoid has one end of the solenoid winding connected to one of the big BAT posts. The small terminal connects to the other end of the solenoid winding and completes the circuit when you ground that small terminal through the button switch.
When you install one of those "ground to activate" solenoids, make sure you connect the battery cable to the solenoid post marked "BAT", that is the one with the solenoid winding connected to it. If you acidently switch the battery and starter connections, the solenoid will not function.
I repowered a 48 model F6 with a modern 12V engine and wanted to keep the starter solenoid with the extra terminal for the ignition resistor bypass. I made it work with the original grounding button switch by mounting the solenoid base on an insulated wood block on the firewall. I jumpered the small "S" post to the big "BAT" post and connected the Starter button wire to the foot of the solenoid. It worked great with the grounding starter button and I had the "hot start terminal for better starting ignition.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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