Yay! This is my first time to be the first to say....GET A BOOK!!!!! Okay, now that that is done, a little to chew on while waiting for your new shop manual to arrive, by the way, the deere shop manual is much spendier than the IT manual, but the hydraulic section is also much better, worth the money I would say.
First off, your pump will not be sucking air, as there is no "suction" side of the closed center piston pump, it is supplied by pressurized oil from a transmission driven charge pump at between 50 and 130 PSI. Your front end loader will require more pressure to perform up to par than steering, brakes and such, so lack of performance will be more noticable, and the steering and brakes are protected by a priority valve, so if the pressure or flow is weak, it will all go to those circuits before accesory hydraulics (the loader).
It coud be your new pump is not adjusted correctly, there is a process for checking the stroke valve adjustment (in the handy book....) or you could have a valve problem in your loader, or many other things.
First thing to do is get a book, then check line pressure, then check your charge pump pressure and flow, establish that both pumps are working well, then check for leaks or problems in the system.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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