Did you get the stop threaded in all the way to the end of the threads? You might have to lightly tap the seals into place with a thin (maybe 1/4") piece of hardwood with a blunt end, working all the way around them. If it's the same as the 320 I had and replaced seals on regularly for 40 years, it's not rocket science. It IS an oily messy job.
I stood the cylinder up in a large pan or cutoff 55gal drum and let the bottom side drain. Then I clamped it in the vice, put a hose on the long return pipe and pulled the ram out full length while the hose was securely placed in a container. Then stand it back up in the large pan and slide the ram back in. Now when you disassemble it with the cylinder clamped in a vise, have the drip pan under it when you remove the seals and pull the ram out. Have plenty of oil dry handy because no matter how careful you are, oil ends up on the floor (wink). Jim
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Today's Featured Article - The Ferguson System Principal An implement cutting through the soil at a certain depth say eight inches requires a certain force or draft to pull it. Obviously that draft will increase if the implement runs deeper than eight inches, and decrease if it runs shallower. Why not use that draft fact to control the depth of work automatically? The draft forces are
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