Fun to have other "sparkies" to chat with on these topics, even if we bore others to tears. As I see it when the coils LV primary collapses (current interrupted when points open) voltage starts to rise across the HV secondary and it only rises high enough to arc jump current across the plug gaps. If the gap is too wide i.e. NO CURRENT PATH (and no leaks or HV breakdown occurs) the voltage will then ramp back down. In that HV double ended secondary coil if EITHER gap was too wide OR LIKEWISE IF THERE WAS NO TO GROUND PATH (on either end) I dont see any plug firings and that agrees with your conclusion THERE HAS TO BE A TO GROUND PATH SOMEWHERE which may consist of a HV insulation breakdown somewhere in the loop. If such continues to happen furthere insulation damage will take place and carbon tracking and eventually trash the coil completely.
I dont see how in theory this is any different then when theres a regualar coil but theres no plug wire attached nor anyplace current can arc, the plug simply fails to fire well DUHHHHHHHH. If alls well if you remove one plug wire in the loss spark system I dont see how the remaining plug can fire UNLESS THERES AN ARC PATH SOMEWHERE !!!!!!!!!!
NOTE 1 the coil is capable of achieveing far higher voltage then that normally required to fire the plug, say 10,000 or so volts, depending on plug gap and compression etc HOWEVER if theres an open like one plug is removed etc THE VOLTAGE WILL RISE MUCHHHHHHHHHHH HIGHER THEN NORMAL and when that happens unintentional arcing and HV insulation breakdown can occur that would NOT otherwise with both plugs installed, and if left unchecked the coil (it HV withstand ability) eventually fails.
NOTE 2 This reminds me of the age old farmers trick that when a plug is misfiring he pulls the plug wire off but with maybe a 1/4 inch gap left between the wire end and the plug and it starts firing but thats another story.....
What say you??? What do the "experts" on the other board think
I been retired as an EE since 91 so rusty as an old nail on all this but this is my story n Ima stickin to it
PS If you remember the RV battery discussion, Im leaving my three 12 volt identical 125 AH units all connected in paralell for now (375 AH) its working great, but in the future when they eventually fail Im going back to two L 16 (290 AH) true deep cycle 6 volt batteries in series and use of a 3 stage "smart" charged designed for deep cycle battery charging and maintenance and oughta get 10 yrs out of that I figure. The thing is now (unless I change over) Im having to use the cheap run of the mill (NOT smart or 3 stage) RV Converter/Charger which charges the house batteries when Im plugged in. Just last week, however, I added an On/Off switch so when Im plugged in for weeks at a time the Converter/Charger can be disconnected from the house batteries (as needed, monitoring voltage) to avoid any overcharging or boiling over those expensive batteries. When plugged in my 12 volt loads are Converter powered so they all still work even if I disconenct the house batteries. Last week my RV was under roof but the roof solar panel was still producing slightly (maybe 1 to 2 amps) and the house batteries were stabilized at 13.22, then when I plugged in they rose to 13.68 but later settled at 13.45 SO I THINK IM OKAY FOR NOW, it may not even be necessary to disconenct the charger (they never lost electrolyte last year wehn plugged in constantly) but I like my added switch just in case.
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Today's Featured Article - Listening to Your Tractor - by Curtis Von Fange. Years ago there was a TV show about a talking car. Unless you are from another planet, physically or otherwise, I don’t think our internal combustion buddies will talk and tell us their problems. But, on the other hand, there is a secret language that our mechanical companions readily do speak. It is an interesting form of communication that involves all the senses of the listener. In this series we are going to investigate and learn the basic rudimentary skills of understanding this lingo.
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