That's a good question for which I do NOT have an educated or scientific answer. One could argue using straight grades of oil such as SAE20, 30, 40, 50 when and wear necessary, under the right temperatures, which WOULD require changing oils more often, which most people would not, at times including myself. One could then argue maufacturer suggested specifications, which these days are generally multigrades, possibly based upon scientific knowledge, improved technologies, or experience, or a knowledge that most have gotten lazy, so multigrades are the lessor evil to meet minimum requirements. One can never got wrong by following manufactrer suggested specifications, and that being said, I have in my fleet of vehicles that include two Cummins Dodges, that I follow manufacturer specs on, tractors and other equipments that I follow manufacturer specs on, also a Buick Century and Jeep Cherokee that the manufacturers suggest using regular unleaded gasoline in, but I have always and will always use premium unleaded, the same as my Allis Chalmers B lawn mower. The Deeres, the Massey, and the Case are all diesel, and other than fuel additives, get what are manufacturer suggested specs.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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