I had an '84 before this one, a '94 but I don't know what the differences are on the '93-'97's like this one.
I suppose if you could reach under, disconnect the electrical plug to the fuel pump, then undo the 2 fuel line clips, disconnect those, also a vent tube/line that slides off, still going to be difficult, as the tank strap and the heat shield have to come off. By taking the box off, you have easy access to all the bolts, where you can spray em with penetrating oil, mine were rusted/seized, but PB blaster worked on them, was out of my preferred penetrant, "Free-All" by Gasoila. Also have to remember to disconnect the filler tube flange to the box and take the fuel cap off.
Taking the box off should be a 15 minute job at most, 2 people can lift it easily, loader made it easy for 1 person, you do have to watch the corners and what not, was not too concerned with the paint on this one, easily done using furniture blankets or similar, or just have 2 people.
My F150 is probably got the same problem, fuel tank, pump, don't hear it come on when it has power, both have sat too long, needing work done to em. Gas turns ugly after a long time, the soft rubber collar on the ranger fuel pump above the strainer turned to something like whats in a lava lamp, don't mix with fuel and settles out easily.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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