I don't doubt that what you say about that one wire alt is fact, not questioning that at all. Just saying that a 1 wire alt done correctly will not do that.
There is a newer type 1 wire regulator that does connect to the battery stud and will very slowly discharge the battery. They excite at lower rpm, but to me the trade off of having something that slowly discharges the battery is not worth the slightly lower excite speed. Something similar was used in the very early Factory Delco 1 wire alternators that had the little red plug you could install in one of 4 positions to adjust the charging voltage, they would also slowly bleed the battery.
The one you had that would kill the battery either has that type of regulator, or has a bad diode in the rectifier pack.
For 30+ years I have repaired, rebuilt and modified those SI series alternators to meet my needs(1 wire, 3 wire, large / small output), so I know them well. I build my own 1 wire alternators so I know which type of regulator was used. Buying a 1 wire alt from an auto parts store can be a crapshoot, as you dont know what was used inside. If you own a digital volt ohm meter, you can use the MA section to see if the alt in question puts any drain on the battery. A correctly done 1 or 3 wire alt should register little or no MA draw when connected between the battery lead and the BAT stud on the alt rear. If it does show a draw, take it back and try a 1 wire alt from another shop.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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