I had a Morton brand building built in 1981. Their technique is to use 3 short pieces of 2x something that are very highly pressure treated and bury in concrete. The tops are different lengths and they complete the framing by bolting 3 more pieces on and going on up.
Seemed like a great idea at the time, but the "foundation" if you will is shot (rotted) and has been for at least the last 5 years. Any day I expect it to blow away.
My newest barn is from a different barn builder and he uses a full 5" square treated timber for verticals and bury in concrete. He also had a 1/8" or so, square plastic sleeve about 4' long that you slip over the pole prior to insertion in the ground that keeps the pole away from the elements...so I added that at $25 a pop. The new ban has a shed as an extension of the roof and I did not use them on the shed part as I didn't want rain water to fill them up and rot out the posts. I figure if those fail I can easily replace them.
Around here, if you don't stick it in the ground, or in the case of steel, bolt it to an anchor embedded in a concrete slab, then you can plan on talking your neighbors into letting you retrieve your barn from their south 40.
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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