I had a Morton brand building built in 1981. Their technique is to use 3 short pieces of 2x something that are very highly pressure treated and bury in concrete. The tops are different lengths and they complete the framing by bolting 3 more pieces on and going on up.
Seemed like a great idea at the time, but the "foundation" if you will is shot (rotted) and has been for at least the last 5 years. Any day I expect it to blow away.
My newest barn is from a different barn builder and he uses a full 5" square treated timber for verticals and bury in concrete. He also had a 1/8" or so, square plastic sleeve about 4' long that you slip over the pole prior to insertion in the ground that keeps the pole away from the elements...so I added that at $25 a pop. The new ban has a shed as an extension of the roof and I did not use them on the shed part as I didn't want rain water to fill them up and rot out the posts. I figure if those fail I can easily replace them.
Around here, if you don't stick it in the ground, or in the case of steel, bolt it to an anchor embedded in a concrete slab, then you can plan on talking your neighbors into letting you retrieve your barn from their south 40.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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