Dunno LJD, I don't have a code book. There are a lot of small niggling codes when wiring a device. For example; the wires to the device or to the splice must be able to pulled 6" out from the box. The plastic romex cover must be cut off to within 1/2 inch of the back of the box. And there are requirements as to how many connections can be made per cubic inch. It varies with wire guage. All boxes have the cubic inch stamped on them so you can get it right. I know that you can use 14 ga wire for the pigtail to a 15 amp device even on a 20 amp circuit. Lot of little oddball things. As for the GFCI well that of course is different as you must make those connections on the GFCI itself if you want the load to be protected. As I say I'm not an electrician but have stood enough electrical inspections in my own houses over the years that I usually don't get gigged by the inspector any more.
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Today's Featured Article - Upgrading an Oliver Super 55 Electrical System - by Dennis Hawkins. My old Oliver Super 55 has been just sitting and rusting for several years now. I really hate to see a good tractor being treated that way, but not being able to start it without a 30 minute point filing ritual every time contributed to its demise. If it would just start when I turn the key, then I would use it more often. In addition to a bad case of old age, most of the tractor's original electrical system was simply too unreliable to keep. The main focus of this page is to show how I upgr
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