The stall RPM (or stall speed) of a converter is the rpm at which the converter no longer slips, or slips very little. An OEM converter is set to provide good fuel economy and smooth acceleration, so the rpm is set low. A modified engine needs to get at or near it's torque peak to achieve the best acceleration, so the converter rpm is set as close to this as possible. Advertised rpm of a given torque converter is only an estimate- it depends on the engine's torque band for it's true stall rpm. For my drag cars, I always had a converter custom built to match the characteristics of the engine. Coan was always my favorite builder- they asked every possible parameter, such as car weight, tire size, camshaft specs, rear gear ratio, etc, and the converter always did what they said it would. I once ordered a 5300 rpm converter (8") from them for a large engine in a heavy car, and it stalled at 5300 rpm. I later used it with a small motor (less torque) in a very light car, and it stalled at 4000 rpm. The car was lazy off the line, since this engine's torque peak was about 6500 rpm. The low buck solution at the time was 200hp of nitrous in low gear, which brought the torque curve down, and also raised the stall speed to about 5000 rpm. The car left like a rocket. In a street car, converters are always a compromise. A high stall is a pain in the butt to drive every day, but also a lot of fun, is matched to the engine.
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Today's Featured Article - Listening to Your Tractor - by Curtis Von Fange. Years ago there was a TV show about a talking car. Unless you are from another planet, physically or otherwise, I don’t think our internal combustion buddies will talk and tell us their problems. But, on the other hand, there is a secret language that our mechanical companions readily do speak. It is an interesting form of communication that involves all the senses of the listener. In this series we are going to investigate and learn the basic rudimentary skills of understanding this lingo.
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