Remove the main breaker from the panel. My guess is you will discover the breaker is bad. The place where the main connects to the buss bars is likely to be burned. Or where the wires connect to the main are arking.
Turn your power off by pulling your meter, which means you'll have to cut the tag. Unless you have an electrician do this for you, you'll have some explaining when the electric company discovers a cut tag.
Before you do that, go to Harbor freight and buy an Infra-red therometer. Turn everything on in the house, stove, water heater, furnace, lights, washer, dryer. Measure the temp of the main breaker where the main wires connect. You may have to remove some breakers to measure the temp where the main breaker connects to the buss bars. High temps will trip a breaker too.
I would also measure the current in both power wires. It may be possible you need to balance the loads so, the amp on your 110v loads are equal. Get an ammprobe. You can get a cheap one at Harbor Freight too.
My guess is you have a bad breaker or bad connections to the main, which means you will need a new 100a breaker.
DON'T KEEP RESETTING THE MAIN. IT'S TRYING TO TELL YOU SOMETHING AND YOU ARE NOT LISTENING. FIND THE PROBLEM OR GET PROFESSIONAL HELP.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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