I'd want to determine (or make a best guess) if that bar got like that from active on-going arcing - or just from time, moisture, and corrosion.
I've cleaned up many bus bars that got corroded from roof leaks and years of moisture. No big deal to a certain point. Clean it up, add some anti-oxidant, FIX the roof, etc. The plug-in connection is usually rated for a lot more amps then the breaker is - so there is wiggle-room.
How many high amp appliances does your house have? 100 amp main panel isn't much for a modern houseshold if you DO have heavy stuff. Going by new residential code 100 amps is the legal minimum. E.g., do you have a 240 volt well pump, 240 volt electric hot water heater, 240 volt electric dryer, 240 volt electric stove, 240 volt electric welder, etc. ? And how many high draw 120 VAC appliances? Big microwave? Furnace blower? AC or heat pump? Space heaters?
Just wondering since I don't recall you mentioning your load potential. If that main breaker is often running near its max potential - even if just on one leg, the heat-sensitive bi-metal spring inside (that activates the trip bar) - will get weak - and result in a bad breaker (which might of happened with the first one).
Just something to consider - and perhaps you already have. If you DO have a situation where that main could be near it's max if several high-draw applicnaces all come on at once - you might be able to stick in a slighty bigger breaker or complete main panel without changing anything else. That all depends on your panel rating and the size of your downlead from the power-company's entrance cable. Obviously, if the service cable going to your box is only #2 aluminum or #4 copper, you cannot go bigger without changing the wire. But many older homes (at least in my area)often have #1 copper or 2/0 aluminum with 100 amp services and they can be upgraded to 150 amps with no wire-change.
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