Green is good (but parts are spendy), grey is good too... though we are both now partial to rust. Husband has a 1936 B JD, a 1936 Grey Farmall F20 (grey becaus it was made prior to Nov of 36) and our newest aquisition is a 1931 Farmall Regular that we will keep rusty.
My husband also wanted me to post this: when working on any tractor, the level of difficulty is determined by what shape it is in. Though JD are mechanically simpler machines... if you get one that is seized and missing a lot of parts, of course your project will be more difficult than buying one where the engine turns over and has all its components. He recommends getting one where the engine is NOT seized as it won't require as many tools or as much knowledge. He said if it is seized and missing a lot of parts, you may be in over your head for a first project - especially if you don't have a lot of tools or mechanical experience. Also, that if one does not have experience - one can actually damage/break a lot of parts when trying to tear a tractor down.
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Today's Featured Article - The Ferguson System Principal An implement cutting through the soil at a certain depth say eight inches requires a certain force or draft to pull it. Obviously that draft will increase if the implement runs deeper than eight inches, and decrease if it runs shallower. Why not use that draft fact to control the depth of work automatically? The draft forces are
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