Green is good (but parts are spendy), grey is good too... though we are both now partial to rust. Husband has a 1936 B JD, a 1936 Grey Farmall F20 (grey becaus it was made prior to Nov of 36) and our newest aquisition is a 1931 Farmall Regular that we will keep rusty.
My husband also wanted me to post this: when working on any tractor, the level of difficulty is determined by what shape it is in. Though JD are mechanically simpler machines... if you get one that is seized and missing a lot of parts, of course your project will be more difficult than buying one where the engine turns over and has all its components. He recommends getting one where the engine is NOT seized as it won't require as many tools or as much knowledge. He said if it is seized and missing a lot of parts, you may be in over your head for a first project - especially if you don't have a lot of tools or mechanical experience. Also, that if one does not have experience - one can actually damage/break a lot of parts when trying to tear a tractor down.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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