That arch is much better than the pan. Don't remove the firebrick. It will give you a hotter fire. You can get a cast iron door and frame from any masonry dealer or maple dealers like Bascombs in NH among others. There are alot a 2x4 hobby evaporators out there. You will be adding finely split wood (1"x2") every few minutes. You will need to add grates if you burn wood. You probably want two doors; one above the other.
It appears that the stainless sides are hemmed but still very thick for boiling sap. SS is not a good conductor but it is the industry standard. Fabricators will use a much thinner gauge for better heat transfer. The best evaporators are made from copper but are very expensive and rare. A newby is better off with formed and welded SS. I suppose a silver pan would be the ultimate but I have never heard of one.
The small section is the syrup or finishing pan. It should have several baffles to promote a serpentine flow so that you only draw off nearly finished syrup at the end of the maze. The baffles will also stiffen the bottom so that you don't get hot spots if you run a thin syrup level. Thinner is better but very risky.
You may want to add vertical copper tubes to the sap or flue pan. They extend into the shallow flue section of the arch.
There is a very good forum that covers all aspects of maple production. You need to spend some time there. The back-yarders and professionals won't hesitate to answer your questions. Click the link.
The season may have already started in places like SC, NC, and TN. We have had some runs here in eastern MA but it is way too early to tap. The season is about a month away.
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