During the 60s, where I lived on the border of NY and NJ - good running cars were all over the place for $50. Me and my friends ruined many - either by beating on them something awful- of just stripping for parts. Mid-60s - I remember buying a 49 Pontiac with a straight-8 for $50. Drove it for a few months with the pedal to the floor until the engine blew. Also bought a 55 Chevy two-door sports-coupe with a 265 V8 for $50 and it only had 40K original miles on it. Pulled the engine out of it and pushed it into a local woods and abandoned it. In 1969, I bought a 62 Chevy for $15. Had a straight six and Powerglide. Drove it, non-stop to Mexico with no problems. Shut it off and it wouldn't start again - and I left it there near Tijuana. I later hitched home to lower NY and bought a 55 Ford with a 292 and paid $75 for it. Drove that for a year and then traded for a 1963 Falcon Sprint (I had to kick in an extra $150). 63 Sprint convertible with a 260 V8 and four on the floor. That I kept for almost a year and then swapped for a 63 Pontiac Tempest with a 326 V8 and a trans in the rear (odd-ball).
By the way, I sold my 100 year-old mom's 1987 Cavalier for $100 this Spring. Ran perfect and only had 55K miles on it. Yeah, it would of been worth more to scrap it.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulic Basics - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In the last entry to this series we gave a brief overview of hydraulic system theory, its basic components and how it works. Now lets take a look at some general maintenance tips that will keep our system operating to its fullest potential. The two biggest enemies to a hydraulic system are dirt and water. Dirt can score the insides of cylinders, spool valves and pumps. Wate
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