The cheaper multi-meters can read amperage, alligator clip it in.
Break the connector under the dash, measure amps. Check the positive feeds for resistance, you may be chaffed into the frame rail some where. Fab up a quick harness from under the dash to the taillamps bypassing the original wiring, then directly to the taillamp harness. If problem goes away, it is in that section of harness.
Or with this jumper harness hook your bulbs right to it, measure amps, then go back to your original wiring and masure amps. Huge difference should equal a ground condition somewhere in that section.
I am not a wiring pro or an electrican, but so far most of my electrical issues I have figured out, with my multi-meter. So far, knock on wood...
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: 1964 JD 2010 Dsl - Part 2 - by Jim Nielsen. Despite having to disassemble the majority of my John Deere 2010's diesel engine, I was still hopeful I could leave the engine-complete with crankshaft and camshaft-in the tractor. This would make the whole engine rebuild job much easier-and much less expensive! I soon found however, that the #4 conrod bearing had disintegrated, taking with it chunks of the crankshaft journal. As a resul
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