I took the time today to work on my lighting.. I made a meter as i previously described.. I put it on the "input side" of the brake switch and showed what I thought was rather low amperage (hooked it to one light before testing on the truck to get a feel what each bulb should show).. The gauge showed very close to 4x what one light showed, which threw me for a loop..
I noticed it took about 45 seconds for the terminal on the "live wire" to be too hot to touch.. I completely disconnected the brake switch and used my amp gauge setup as a "jumper".. showed a slightly less amperage, and after nearly 3 minutes of the brake lights being on I could still touch the terminal that would have previously been too hot.
I hooked my brake switch back up, and noticed I lost nearly 3/4 of a volt across the switch..
Being this is the 6th 80's era Ford I have owned, I dug into my stashed parts and found a new in the box brake switch I had bought somewhere along the line.. I installed it, and checked voltage from one pole to the other.. about .01 difference in volts.. Held the brake down for a few, and terminals seemed to stay cool, and not trip the breaker, so I'm calling it problem solved.
Hopefully, that's it.. I'll find out after a few days I'm sure.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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