Posted by Ed Wayment+ on February 07, 2012 at 13:44:11 from (24.10.204.197):
Bought tractor from guy using starting fluid to get it running. Had the injectors and injection pump rebuilt. Still not working, tore into engine. Had a couple broken compression rings. Decided to rebuild engine, new liners, pistons, rings, head rebuilt, new valves and valve guides and springs. Had crank shaft checked and polished. Reused cam shaft and gears. Noticed some damage prior to dis-assembling, on front cover like cam shaft gear was forced into it at one time. Re-assembled engine, checking piston to sleeve clearance, ring clearances, all checked okay. New main and rod bearings and gaskets. When timing injections pump, manual I have says if pump has been upgraded time it 23 degrees. When setting at 23 degrees and meshing pump gear with cam, injection pump will only line up at 30+ degrees or if I jump the gear one tooth lines up at 0 degrees tdc. This is the closest I've been to having it running chugging white smoke like out of time. Tried multiple different timing points, did compression test with just the starter - only getting 100 psi. I know this is low. Can anyone help me with some solutions?? Pistons are dished with typical fire bowl. I don't if pistons could be wrong ones? Or if someone previously damaged cam shaft or gear and re-installed wrong one?
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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