Get yourself the correct size file for your particular chain along with handle.Also a flat file to file down rakers. And most importantly a filing guide/handbook.Almost anybody can learn quickly to file a saw chain. Do not fall for any of the high priced saw filing crap that is out there. There are two main types of chain, semi chisel, and full chisel. Your filing guide will show you the difference. I prefer full chisel for all around cutting. In really dirty firewood logs the semichisel will not dull quite as quick, but it is not as aggresive as full chisel, so I find you are better to have a few chains sharpened up the night before you are doing a lot of cutting, and just change chain when it starts to show least sign of not cutting at full capacity. By the way changing chain or stopping to sharpen as son as it starts to dull is key for two reasons, - easier/quicker to sharpen, and longer chain life as you dont remove as much matl. This equals faster cutting =more cuts per chain. Another thing your filing guide will point out is filing of rakers as your chain wears. Rakers are the raised part of tooth in front of cuter that controls the depth of bite. As you sharpen your chain the cuter part of tooth decreases in hieght, so to maintain the new chain bite you need to file down rakers as you go. It sounds harder than it really is after you get the hang of it it wont take you more than 10 or 15 mins to do a chain on 20 inch bar (cutting teeth and rakers)
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Today's Featured Article - Madison's County - by Anthony West. Philip Madison has been a good friend of mine for quite some time. He has patiently suffered my incessant chit chat on the subject of tractors for longer than I care to remember, and on many occasions he has put himself out, dropped what ever it was he was doing, to come and lend a hand cranking handles, or loading a find onto a trailer. Although he himself has never actually owned or restored a tractor, he was always enthusiastic and always around helping with other peoples projects.
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