If the relief valve worked good in other tractor then it is not the problem. Not necessary to have exact pressure rated relief valve, either one will work up to their rated pressure. Couple other things that happen in those models, make darn sure your not raising the hitch with the draft control lever and have the position control lever too far down in lower position. That last offset portion of the position control is action control. It merely dumps a good portion of the fluid to all circuits and is used to control speed of hitch reactions to change of load when using draft control for plowing etc. Have seen a lot of tractors that would not lift a load when someone had just inadverdently pushed position lever too far down. That action control valve can stick also but you have to know what you are feeling for to tell that. Couple other things, blown seal rings, either at the pump mounting flange or under the top cover to main frame. I always pressurize the port when pump is off to check for internal leaks. Just have to put one aux valve on demand and apply air pressure and listen for leaks inside. Too late now but. Anyway.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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