I had a problem getting this plow to work on my Ward's tractor. To make a long story short I made a template of the handles on the Viking walk behind garden tractor using thin cardboard and made a frame to look similar to the Viking's drawbar. I have a picture of just the frame I made. The handle you see in the picture tilts the plow point and it is bolted to the drawbar on the frame.
When I first installed the plow frame on the sleeve hitch I drilled and tapped the face of the sleeve hitch with (4) 3/8-NF holes. I also drilled 4 holes in face of that frame and used 4 cap screws to fasten the frame to the sleeve hitch. This worked fine for plowing, but it was a pain to install on the sleeve hitch and remove. I had a piece of 1/4" flat stock bent to just fit over the sleeve hitch. I measured closely to where to drill the hole in this bracket. I wanted the bracket to fit tight so the plow wouldn't sway. I then bolted this bracket to the 4 holes already in the frame using 4 flathead bolts that the heads were countersunk into the bracket. I now only one pin and 2 cap screws to mount the plow on the frame. The lever for tilting the point stays on the frame and I hang it in my mini barn on the wall. Hal PS: Here's that frame I made so the plow would work on my tractor.
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: 1964 JD 2010 Dsl - Part 2 - by Jim Nielsen. Despite having to disassemble the majority of my John Deere 2010's diesel engine, I was still hopeful I could leave the engine-complete with crankshaft and camshaft-in the tractor. This would make the whole engine rebuild job much easier-and much less expensive! I soon found however, that the #4 conrod bearing had disintegrated, taking with it chunks of the crankshaft journal. As a resul
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