Without knowing the actual full load amps of that motor I will have to venture a somewhat educated GUESS:
If the 5 HP single phase AC motor draws say 28 amps at full load,,,,,,,,,that would require a MINIMUM of 8 gauge (40 amp rated) copper wire and you could "get by" with that.
HOWEVER to reduce the voltage drop over 70 feet of conductors Id probably go one size bigger and use 6 gauge.
If its a straight 230 volt motor load with NOOOOOO 120 volt required, that means you can run 3 conductors:
If I were designing and specifying the job (like I used to do but long since retired) there at the motor (within sight and 50 feet at minimum but I prefer right near the motor) I would place a "method of disconnection" which at the bare MINIMUM could be a plug and cord from the motor connected into a 2 pole 3 wire grounding outlet and Id prefer a twist lock.
HOWEVER my preference would be EITHER a 2 pole knife blade type "Safety switch" or better a 2 pole "fused safety switch" equipped with dual element Class K5 time delay fuses or IFFFFFFFFFF the motor isnt equipped with thermal overload protection then a "combination starter" which is BOTH a safety switch PLUS a thermal overload protection device (with appropriate sized heaters/thermals/overloads)
NOTE The motor should have thermal overload protection, either built in but if not then as noted above.
NOTE you should use flexible conduit or rubber cord from the motor to the means of disconnection
NOTE if you use 6 gauge wire and a 50 amp 240 volt 2 pole circuit breaker as the motors branch circuit feed out of the panel and it doesnt allow the motor to start???? (may well do it) you can use a bigger breaker if necessary which wont trip due the the initial higher inrush starting current
DISCLAIMER Ive been retired from engineering for yearssssssssss and am rusty on this and the latest NEC so if more current professional electricians or engineers need to add to or correct this PLEASE DO SO
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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