The first two show a conflicting tale regarding manually removing air from the cylinder. I was always taught that cylinders must be pre filled, manually bled etc to remove air, which is the first link showing the hazards of using a cycling the double acting cylinders to remove air. It has become second nature, and I can safely say that the US Navy, the US Coast Guard, Waste Management do not allow cycling the cylinder to remove air. To the credit of my critics, however, I must cede that Precision Fluid Power list cycling as their method of removing air. Those are your first two links.
The third link is the brake down and repair procedure for cylinders. When they detail the procedure for ensuring the ram is true, it tells you to first check for a polished sign on one side of the ram. If you see the need to check for true in the ram. Everywhere I have done this the QA standard, which isn"t mentioned, is 0.002". If you have less, I have never had anyone that would not accept that as true. The link only says use fine emery cloth in a cross pattern. If you have a clean ram with only the minor scratch, I would use a 400 grit. If you have build up on the ram, and have to use a course sheet to get it to where you are at the metal expect scratches from the paper that you will be finishing with 400 grit. The rest of the third link should walk you thru the cylinder repair.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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