I designed trusses for 18 years for a local truss company. I say designed what I mean is I input the information and the truss plate manufacturers software analyzed it. Then it was sent to the engineering department for them to stamp. Around here the building departments WILL NOT let you build your own trusses. What grades of lumber you use has as much to do with the strength as the webs do. Most lumber yards do not carry much stress rated lumber, #1 or #2 etc. Standard and better grade is what most carry and is not allowed in the chords of the truss. Stud grade or better can be used for webs though. I don't know if a truss company would sell you the truss plates if they knew what you were doing with them. I don't know where their liability ends where they would not have built the trusses. Simpson Strong Tie makes a plate that looks like a truss plate but it is stamped NOT FOR TRUSSES right on the plate. They don't want the liability either. Part of the price covers the engineering on the trusses. I have done many repairs on trusses that were damaged some how. The little truss plate would be about a 12" x 12" plywood gusset with a pot load of nails in it. The engineers won't allow you any value for adhesive because they can't control how that is applied, only nails or screws(not grabber type screws either, they are too brittle and have no shear strength). The decision is yours alone so be careful whichever you do.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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