There is no universal guide because all cylinders aren't the same. Some have bolt on glands, and some have the glands screwed in. Those that are screwed in often have either flats machined into them, a hex made onto the end, and/or notches on the outside edge, or holes in the face for either a hook or pin spanner to grab. Then there are those that are threaded in and have holes in the face for a pin spanner and notches around the outside that are part of a jam nut that keeps the gland tight once it's threaded in.
There are also the ones out there that others have talked about that use a ring in an internal groove. Usually those have holes in the face for a pin spanner in order to turn the gland and make the ring role out. This will also have a narrow slot in the side of the barrel where you can see the ring. One side of the slot will be relatively square cut and the other will be ramped down. The gland should turn in the direction that would force the ring up the tapered face. One problem you run into with this type is if the tang that makes the ring rotate with the gland and forces it out of the hole breaks off. When that happens they can be a real PITA to get apart, and that's putting it nicely. If the tang is broken the best thing to do rotate the gland and hope the ring will move with it. Get it moved to where you can see the gap is use a skinny screw driver and slip it in the narrow slot where the ring is. From that point try to pry up the ring as much as possible and rotate the gland at the same time. If your lucky the ring will at least begin to come out of it's groove and you can catch it with a pair of pliers and help it the rest of the way. If that doesn't work, bad as I hate to say it, your own your own as there really isn't any other way to get one of those cylinders apart.
Another variation on the ring in a groove is one that has a threaded jam nut tightened against the face of the barrel. Once that nut is taken loose you have to knock the gland down into the cylinder. Once you knock it down a ways it will reveal a ring that fits tight into a groove around the ID of the barrel. Once it's removed you pull on the cylinder rod and as you pull the gland, rod, and piston all come out together.
Of course there is also the type with tie rods holding everything together, but I doubt anyone would get stumped disassembling one of those.
Those are the main types I can recall ever dealing with in a lifetime of working on all types of equipment. Granted there are variations on them where special sockets are needed for this part or that, but in general they all fall under one of the general designs I just mentioned.
Beyond that holler back when you have a bit more info and maybe I can help a bit more with how to get the thing apart.
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Today's Featured Article - A Lifetime of Farm Machinery - by Joe Michaels. I am a mechanical engineer by profession, specializing in powerplant work. I worked as a machinist and engine erector, with time spent overseas. I have always had a love for machinery, and an appreciation for farming and farm machinery. I was born and raised in Brooklyn, New York. Not a place one would associate with farms or farm machinery. I credit my parents for instilling a lot of good values, a respect for learning, a knowledge of various skills and a little knowledge of farming in me, amo
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