I have an old 22" rear tine reverse rotation machine with a Briggs 8hp engine. its clutching was pushing idlers against a vee belt, both drive and tiller belts very short, easily burned up when a jam occured (rock, junk, root) and took a lot of time to disassemble and replace. No more belts. From one post no more chains either. I am too old to be jerking on a rope, so 110volt start for me. This old one would mill the earth just fine but the footprints...! It had a shift to the side handle that helped but the handle bars were down at knee level when doing a good dig. The problem was the tractor type tires would slip into the nearby tilled path and while the wheels were alway slipping against the reverse rotating tines pull, the tiller would slide down into the last pass with the tiller tilted nearly 40 degrees and not tilling a full width, resulting in a two handed struggle to keep it up on the untilled path. I had a an extra pair of tractor-type wheels "dualled" onto the existing ones and that helped a lot but it was all I could do to turn 180 on the sod as it had no quick release hubs or a differential. I only use the thing maybe one hour a year and I am getting dam tired of working an hour or two to get that tilling time. Just like a Lawnboy snowthrower I had years ago! Sorry for the rant. Looks like if you want a civilized machine, you have to pay 2k or more. Makes you want to buy canned vegetables!
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Today's Featured Article - A Lifetime of Farm Machinery - by Joe Michaels. I am a mechanical engineer by profession, specializing in powerplant work. I worked as a machinist and engine erector, with time spent overseas. I have always had a love for machinery, and an appreciation for farming and farm machinery. I was born and raised in Brooklyn, New York. Not a place one would associate with farms or farm machinery. I credit my parents for instilling a lot of good values, a respect for learning, a knowledge of various skills and a little knowledge of farming in me, amo
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