Seems the plates were warming up and the interior resistance of the battery was increasing. So you were applying your battery charger to the chemical solution in series with the plate resistance. So as the interior resistance increased, it subtracted voltage from the battery solution causing the apparent drop. I guess that is due to the reduced number of plates even though they are thicker. I do not fully understand the "physics" of the process.
I have had a similar problem with new and older deep cycle batteries so when charging, to get a full charge, I charge for awhile, let them cool and repeat the process till I feel they are full if using my 10A charger that I use to charge most of my batteries. Or, in the case of my boat batteries, with the built in charger in the boat, I just plug it in and leave it for several days. I charges at a max of 5 amperes and that seems to help them stay cool and charge correctly.
I'm not a battery designer and not familiar with all the new things that have changed since "maintenance free" batteries have arrived on the market. Just telling you what works for me.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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