I have wrapped hay many times. I like the end product. I prefer the tube line wrapper. It is faster to use and uses much less plastic. I usually rent an Anderson brand wrapper.
You do need to pay attention to what you are doing. Some hints to that may help:
1) Wrap the hay as fast as possible after baling.( For high moisture hay/silage bales) The longer it sets the more air is in the bale and you will have a lower quality product when done. We usually had them wrapped within 2-3 hours after baling. Got rained out once and had to wait 24 hours to get it done. The hay had white mold in the finished bales. Too long between baling and sealing.
2) Make sure the hay is not too dry. Over 30% moisture will work fine. If the hay is between 20-30% moisture it may ensilage and it may not.
3) You can wrap dry hay after it goes through the heat/curing process. I do this often. Usually wait 2-3 three weeks after baling. It is nice to have dry hay that has zero spoilage and the mesh is not frozen to the ground. I just feed up some that was three years old that I had wrapped as dry hay. Looked like it was last years hay. You also don't need to wrap it with as much plastic either. I usually just use about 1 1/2 wraps on the dry hay. Just enough so it stays together. I wrap 200-300 corn stalk bales each fall. I then have good bedding the next summer. Also it is nice if we have had a freezing rain. The mesh wrap will freeze down and tear when you go to move a bale. This is a real Pain with shredded bales.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulic Basics - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In the last entry to this series we gave a brief overview of hydraulic system theory, its basic components and how it works. Now lets take a look at some general maintenance tips that will keep our system operating to its fullest potential. The two biggest enemies to a hydraulic system are dirt and water. Dirt can score the insides of cylinders, spool valves and pumps. Wate
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