not a good idea, as bob said while the briggs claims 18 hp, the torque, the amount of twisting force the engine can produce, is not nearly enough to keep the mower spinning once its under a load, the cub has a big, heavy flywheel on the back of the engine which the briggs does not, also the rpm on the briggs is way wrong, if the mower was made for something like a cub it is designed to turn around at engine rpm on that tractor, in the area of 14 to 1600 rpm, a cub's pto is direct engine rpm, and it also spins in the opisite direction of the bigger tractors pto's, if its designed to be powered by a larger tractor its made to have around 540 rpms going into it then the mower steps up the rpm to its blades by a pulley system, gearbox ect, if you manage to get the briggs hooked up to power it, it will probably not even have enough to spin the blades at low idle, if you throttle it up into its power band it will power it on say bare ground or concrete, but you'll be hitting around 3600 rpm on the input pulley of the mower, nearly 4 times what it was designed for, the blades will be turning so fast the mower may self destruct,
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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