i dont understand why you would need a center beam,with properly sized lumber and a fourteen ft span,BUT the THEORY behind not having a joist running both ways is that one or the other would have to be toe nailed reducing its strength.If of course they were evenly spaced.two headers,with joists end nailed through then nailed together simply would make it stronger.As far as tying to the house goes,done properly it doesnt hurt,not done properly causes all sorts of problems.The main one is water infiltration into the joint causing rot in both structures.the PROPER way to tie onto your house would be to remove any siding etc down to the framing structure or outside sheathing.install your connecting lumber,whatever that may be,then install a flashing under the remaining siding,over the top and side of your header.this keeps moisture from collecting between the new deck header and the house. of course,having your deck frestanding eliminates these problems also,but its sometimes not feasable to do that,such as with a cantelivered deck,one built over an existing concrete slab that you would have to penetrate or remove to add support posts etc.the decision to have a freestanding or attatched deck is quite often determined by site requirements.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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