Remember, on a turboed engone the intake side is under more of a vacuum than in a naturally aspirated engine. On top of that the seals in a turbo are ring type seals, not lip type. With those two things in play together, the pressurized oil behind the ring seal can easily get sucked into the intake side of the turbo. With the oil going in on that side a little at a time it gets sucked into and burned by the engine. Becuse of the small amount being burned it all gets burned so you don't see any appreciable amount of smoke, so you don't realize there is any problem.
Too, higher than normal intake vacuum levels cause excessive thrust loads on the turbo's thrust bearings. Based on what I have been told, those higher thrust loads it can cause a slight drop in the turbo's RPM, and a definately cause excessive wear that shortens the life of the turbo.
Between the possibility of lower turbo speeds, caused by high thrust loads, and the resulting lower speeds pushing less air into the engine, the definate fact that a more restricitive media already causes a lower amount of air flow, and the addition of raw oil being sucked into the combustion chamber, all of that together will definately make one not run up to it's expected HP rating. Never seen one where it was bad enough for the engine not to start, but you learn something new every day......
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Today's Featured Article - Talk of the Town: How to Remove a Broken Bolt - by Staff. Another neat discussion from the Tractor Talk Discussion Forum. The discussion started out with the following post: "I have an aluminum steering gear housing with a bolt broken off in it. The bolt is about a 3/8" x 1 1/2" bolt. I've already drilled the center of the bolt out with about 7/64" drill bit the entire length of the bolt. Only one end of the bolt is visible. I tried to use an easy out but it wasn't budging and I didn't want t
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