I'm not a painter but I have a few pretty nice looking tractors. The first and most basic rule for me is: Don't use expensive paint over a five hour prep job, and don't use cheap paint over a fifty hour prep job. Red is more susceptible to fading than any other color. The next step for you if you decide to take the mission is paint and rust removal. Most here use a cup style twisted wire brush in a grinder. To do a good job you will need to remove a lot of parts like the air cleaner, battery, ignition coil, generator, starter, so that you can clean behind them and get paint on the backside of the parts. Most people that work on old rusty stuff use acid wash to get the rust out of pits in steel and cast iron after removing all visible rust. The phosphoric converts the rust into inert iron phosphate, and prevents it from bubbling up after 2-3 years. As with anything else you must follow the directions on the product container, and take proper common sense steps to insure that you are not shooting your primer over water. There is a whole lot more, but one item that I have not seen is to insure adequate lighting, to insure good smooth final prep and level and even paint application. If you just go back over the paint and body work forum you can read for a few hours on the subject, and it is a wealth of knowledge from pros.
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Today's Featured Article - Listening to Your Tractor - by Curtis Von Fange. Years ago there was a TV show about a talking car. Unless you are from another planet, physically or otherwise, I don’t think our internal combustion buddies will talk and tell us their problems. But, on the other hand, there is a secret language that our mechanical companions readily do speak. It is an interesting form of communication that involves all the senses of the listener. In this series we are going to investigate and learn the basic rudimentary skills of understanding this lingo.
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