I'm not a painter but I have a few pretty nice looking tractors. The first and most basic rule for me is: Don't use expensive paint over a five hour prep job, and don't use cheap paint over a fifty hour prep job. Red is more susceptible to fading than any other color. The next step for you if you decide to take the mission is paint and rust removal. Most here use a cup style twisted wire brush in a grinder. To do a good job you will need to remove a lot of parts like the air cleaner, battery, ignition coil, generator, starter, so that you can clean behind them and get paint on the backside of the parts. Most people that work on old rusty stuff use acid wash to get the rust out of pits in steel and cast iron after removing all visible rust. The phosphoric converts the rust into inert iron phosphate, and prevents it from bubbling up after 2-3 years. As with anything else you must follow the directions on the product container, and take proper common sense steps to insure that you are not shooting your primer over water. There is a whole lot more, but one item that I have not seen is to insure adequate lighting, to insure good smooth final prep and level and even paint application. If you just go back over the paint and body work forum you can read for a few hours on the subject, and it is a wealth of knowledge from pros.
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Today's Featured Article - Grain Threshing in the Early 40's - by Jerry D. Coleman. How many of you can sit there and say that you have plowed with a mule? Well I would say not many, but maybe a few. This story is about the day my Grandfather Brown (true name) decided along with my parents to purchase a new Ford tractor. It wasn't really new except to us. The year was about 1967 and my father found a good used Ford 601 tractor to use on the farm instead of "Bob", our old mule. Now my grandfather had had this mule since the mid 40's and he was getting some age on him. S
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