this is a windmill pump,but your going to try to remove the windmill and go electric in the same pipe is that correct?maybe i am not understanding here,but the easiest way would be to simply drop a new pipe in the casing beside the old drop pipe.submersable pumps are available down to 1 3/4" diameter to do this. windmill would have rods down the center of most often a 1 1/4" pipe that would stop you from dropping much of anything inside. and this would preclude you from haveing a check valve above the foot valve too easily. Probably unless you have a pitcher pump that wont pump over 25 ft or so max,with a really GOOD pitcher pump,what your seeing there is the pump cyl itself.often times folks would put the cyl near the top of the well in a shallow well simply for conveience. but,,yousay water is down 6 ft this check valve(or whatever) is at 10 ft its underwater anyway pulling it wont help,its self priming, etc to 6ft.in other words its under water and wheather its open or not makes no difference. IF in this case you have a cyl at the 10 foot depth,you need new pump leathers,check valve would have no effect whatsoever. like i say maybe im misunderstanding what your trying to do.,and heres another little tip,theres probably a hole drilled in the side of the pipe 4-6 ft down to drain pump during winter,so if you have water inside the 1 1/4" pipe at that level,while the water inside the casing is lower,your check valves are holding. this also would as you say make it very hard to get pumping with the mill simply because most of the water you pour in top to prime would runn out this hole unless you poured it in real fast.once you got enough water above this your mill may pump but as you say it wont stay long. basicaly we need to know for sure what you have in your well for sure that your trying to work with,but i assure you if a check valve is under water its NOTyour problem regardless on any type pump.all its there for is to keep water youve pumped above the water level in well from draining back to that level .other than that it has no effect whatsoever. i would strongly suggest you dont try to break whatever it is there,if it is the cyl and you manage to break it your either going to lose your well,or your going to be trying to fish out pieces,because everything below that is falling.pull it up,remove it whatever it takes,go from there. my opinion of course.
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: 1964 JD 2010 Dsl - Part 2 - by Jim Nielsen. Despite having to disassemble the majority of my John Deere 2010's diesel engine, I was still hopeful I could leave the engine-complete with crankshaft and camshaft-in the tractor. This would make the whole engine rebuild job much easier-and much less expensive! I soon found however, that the #4 conrod bearing had disintegrated, taking with it chunks of the crankshaft journal. As a resul
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