Re: Sharpening brush hog blades:

Posted by Billy NY on July 30, 2012 at 15:09:48 from (67.248.100.3):

In Reply to: Sharpening brush hog blades: posted by Dick on July 30, 2012 at 13:20:34:

That is the quandary, try and get those blades off by yourself, without removing the blade holder or stump pan,(see photo below of one removed).

The easiest way to get those blades where you can remove them or sharpen, without being underneath, its to flip the mower upside down, and remove the castellated nut, and cotter pin, pry the stump pan off the tapered shaft, also allows you to inspect the bottom of the gear box for a leaky oil seal around the shaft, and if you are diligent, you can point the filler plug down to a pan and change the lube in the gearbox, letting it drain while you deal with the other things. I welded a hook to one side of my deck, centered and lift it with the front end loader, to flip it. The blade bolts are or could be shoulder type bolts with left hand thread, (turn right to remove) and they have nylon coated nuts to prevent thread disengagement, shoulder bolts on mine are meant to shear, which I have done and was like $40 for new ones last time I bought a set. I have hung my mower from the front end loader, on its side, and braced the lift arms with 6x6 timbers, leaving the mower with one edge on the ground and tilted back, again I NEVER stand in its path where it could fall, I reach over. I have put a ratchet with a cheater pipe on the top side when situated like this, and had a wrench in the other hand, straddling the deck, but not in its path, to remove the blades, I think its easiest and safest to flip it over like mentioned above.

If you have no means to lift and flip over, then I would suggest appropriate hardwood, cribbing, blocking, for the mower to rest on, don't go to high, and remember blocking can roll so take that in consideration when blocking it up, square hard wood timbers are best, leaving enough room to get an angle grinder on the blades, I reach in with my arms, but I NEVER put my head under the deck even when cribbed up.

If they are not trashed, bent, gouged up heavily, you can sharpen them. The profile of one one of these blades if you look at in section, shows the edge square, not pointed like a knife, not sure what the dimension is, its slight, thats how they are when new. I sharpen mine to a point or dull point, I don't see a difference in when cutting thick, tall grasses, maybe there is, and they are as described when new.

If the blades look trashed, its time for a new set, they can be bent and out of balance, makes a difference in efficiency, that and properly adjusting the mower to the tractor, front lower about 1" than the back and level side to side, with sharp, balanced blades, cuts much better, easier, and not as hard on the tractor.

Here is a stump pan of my 6' SE-6 Rhino:

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