check the wire to the run position to see if it is getting voltage. pull the ignition switch out, but leave the wires connected. The back of the switch will have a permanent hot, then an accessory hot, a run hot, and a start hot. there are no ground wires, all hot wires. the constant voltage hot wire should always have battery voltage. If you turn the key to the accesory position and things light up, I'd say you have a good constant 12v wire. so, with the switch pulled out and all wires still attached, turn the key off, find the hot wire. then, turn the key to teh accesory position and find the second hot for that. label them as you go. next, turn the key to the run position and see if you can find if either of the remaining two get voltage. if not, take a small jumper wire and jump from your constant hot to either of the 2 terminals. if your starter motor clicks or cranks over, that will be the start position wire. then the remaining wire will be the run position wire. jump to it and all the other stuff should work.
You didn't mention if the fuel pump, also wasn't working. you should hear that also when you turn the key to the run position. Also, you didn't mention if the engine will crank over if you turn it all the way to start position. Are either of these things happening?
by jumping hot across the terminals on teh back of the switch, you should be able to operate all functions of the switch. if you can do that, then yes, the switch is bad. IF you can't, then we have to go deeper into diagnostics. Not a big problem, but will take a lot more steps!
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Today's Featured Article - Good As New - by Bill Goodwin. In the summer of 1995, my father, Russ Goodwin, and I acquired the 1945 Farmall B that my grandfather used as an overseer on a farm in Waynesboro, Georgia. After my grandfather’s death in 1955, J.P. Rollins, son of the landowner, used the tractor. In the winter 1985, while in his possession the engine block cracked and was unrepairable. He had told my father
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