I knew about fans, just didn't didn't think it applied to a pump. I use old furnace fans in my shop. Discovered that blocking off the discharge a little speeds up the fan and decreases the current.
You have given me an idea. I'll try turning down the valve on the discharge side a little and watch the amps. Some critics here think what I'm doing is crazy. My crazy goal is to run my well with a small 3250 watt RV generator and not damage either. I used to power my well with 220 and never noticed the lights in my house dim. My house has new 200 amp service and new wiring. So, it concerns me that after going back to a 120 v pump, my lights dim just enough that I notice it. To me, the dimming indicates a large lock rotor amp draw.
Before doing this experiment today, I thought my pump would use less power if I tried to start it after my water pressure went to zero.
Separate the leads going to the capacitor and the motor and with your setup use your ammeter to monitor the current flows into and out of the capacitor, the line, and the current flows into and out of the motor.
I have a second ammeter and I'll try that too.
Thanks for your input and thanks for having a positive outlook on life. Wish there was another place for the grumpy old men to go! George
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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