If it is a block wall then you can fix it for a lot less money. Maybe a few hundred dollars and some elbow grease. I have fixed three houses that had 1930-1940 build dates. They many times did not put much of a drain around the basements or if they did they back filled with dirt not gravel. This the water does not move down to the pipe as easy as it would in gravel. Putting more hydraulic pressure on the wall.
If it is a block basement. You need to get the masonry sealer/paint called "Stay Dry". Then before using it I have a long mason drill bit,3/4 x 18 inches. I go right at a seam in the blocks. I drill a hole as low as I can against the floor and out through the out side of the blocks. Most of the houses have the footer poured and then the blocks laid on that footer. Then the floor is poured. So the blocks are lower than the floor. So you can drill at a slit down angle. I usually rilled holes every 2 blocks. I then fill the inside holes with mortar. After that drys 24 hours I then wet the inside walls and paint the "Stay Dry" on the inside.
What you have done is given the water an easier path to follow. The Stay Dry sealer will make the inside more water proof. So the water that gets in to the wall can run down an out the hole on the outside of the block wall.
Also landscape so the surface water runs away. Then make sure you have eve troughs and down spouts that get the water away from the wall.
I looked on Google for Stay Dry and did not find it. It was a masonry powder that you mixed with water. It was pure white. Looked like thick white wash when you put it on.
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Today's Featured Article - Good As New - by Bill Goodwin. In the summer of 1995, my father, Russ Goodwin, and I acquired the 1945 Farmall B that my grandfather used as an overseer on a farm in Waynesboro, Georgia. After my grandfather’s death in 1955, J.P. Rollins, son of the landowner, used the tractor. In the winter 1985, while in his possession the engine block cracked and was unrepairable. He had told my father
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