I think they are worth fixing, I hate making a mess inside a gear box by mixing unknown oils, greases which may have incompatible soap bases. It sounds like overkill, most people ignore differentials, think they don't need service, buddy of mine bought a 2nd van for his side jobs, not bad, decent shape 100K miles, but the rear has a noise, took the cover off, you could see the wear, will hold a while, but you will have to listen to the noise, lube in there when cleaned out was like tar, because no one ever changed it, which is a simple thing to do. Thats just me, now if were a slow leak, I'd drop the old oil, replace with a less viscous grade like cornhead grease as mentioned, my old Rhino SE-6 rotary mower actually calls for a similar lube, 0 or 00, one of those 2 which is stringier and tackier (figure of speech) than 80W-90, kind of like Cornhead grease, similar to the old track roller lube used in Alemite volume pumps to lube tracks rollers on crawlers, stays in place, clings better and is more forgiving when tolerances get expanded say around a seal.
This photo shows the out put shaft on the gear box. Its as simple as flipping the mower upside down, pulling a cotter key, taking the stump pan or blade holder off, then there is likely 4 bolts holding the gear box on, on mine, I can easily pull the grade 2 bolt for shear protection on the pto shaft, and with those 4 bolts out, gear box is off, and you can put it on the bench, take to shop. Might be a reach to get to those gear box bolts on either side with hands on each side, 2 people would help. I have not replaced a seal on one of these, but plenty of similar seals, bearings, depends on what it takes to remove/replace, need a press, puller or right tools, don't have, take it to a shop, vs pulling ones hair out LOL ! Once done, refill with the right lube and every year or so depending on use, condensation from cold temps, flip 'er over, drain oil and replace, they last a long time and you know its taken care of, this is usually how they get run dry and ruined, cause people really don't pay a lot of attention to them, just like vehicles, change the motor oil on time but never the differential lube. When removing the pan or blade holder, be cognizant of the fine threads on the shaft, don't deform those or you will be looking for a die or thread file to repair.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning-Up Your Tractor: Plugs & Compression Testing - by Curtis Von Fange. The engine seems to run rough. In the exhaust you can hear an occasion 'poofing' sound like somethings not firing on all cylinders. Under loaded conditions the tractor seems to lack power and it belches black smoke out of the exhaust. For some reason it just doesn't want to start up without cranking and cranking the starter. All these conditions can be signals that your unit is in need of a tune up. Ok, so what is involved in a tune up? You say, swap plugs and file the points....now tha
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