I had come home for lunch, checked the board and banged out that reply below. The reason you use a cement board is it is a very good surface to glue tile to. Better than plywood no matter how many coats of stuff you paint onto the plywood first. It is also mechanically applied - screws/nails - so you can dig up the underlayment when the floor needs to be replaced. Yeah lots of screws but they are still easier than trying to chisel old tile off of plywood. I use a roofing nailer to shoot the stuff down. Fast. Hand nailing with 1 1/4" roofing nails is good too. Screws are probably best but a little bit overkill IMO and so much labor to install. I cut the Hardee board or Durarock cement board with an ordinary skillsaw and a carbide blade. I like hardee board best as it is cleaner to work with. None of these underlaymens are structural. You must have a good sub floor under them. 3/4" is the minimun. All of them, Durarock, etc come in 1/4" or 1/2". Back in the 80s MN building code allowed 5/8" subfloor. You can not tile on that even with underlayment. They poured the bathroom floor - concrete 1". All bathrooms prior to the 70s were poured floors if they got tile. I've built or remodeled probably 200 bathrooms so far. No end in sight but I sure could use more work these days. I don't claim to know it all but I do look at not just 3 years down the road or even 10 years down the road. Bathrooms get rode hard and put away wet. So you look at 15 or 20 years out and it helps to have a thought for the fellow who is going to do it again. Make his job easier if you can. Modern bathroom will get remodeled because it is dated asthetically more than because it it functionally decrepit. The tile in that bathroom below came 16 X 16". Customer wanted it 8 X 16". Not available. I had to split every one.
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: Fordson Major - by Anthony West. George bought his Fordson Major from a an implement sale about 18 years ago for £200.00 (UK). There is no known history regarding its origins or what service it had done, but the following work was undertaken alone to bring it up to show standard. From the engine number, it was found that this Major was produced late 1946. It was almost complete but had various parts that would definitely need replacing.
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