That's funny, we had a 786, two 1066's, 2+2, and a CIH 4240 with dual remotes, and my uncle would use the 190 to pull the 1470 every year. You sit up high out of the engine heat, so it beat the CIH there. The 786 would develop shifter problems when round baling. (and I don't recall anyone EVER hanging upside down, or hanging at all, by their pants from the shifter, so I wonder how one manages that?)
The good thing about the 190 is that if you plug the baler, you just pull uphill, hit the clutch and engage the PTO, then as you ease it downhill backwards, feather the hand clutch to turn the baler backwards.
He'd throw the hand clutch to N, tie the bale, hit the clutch, dump the bale, let the clutch out, lower the gate, when it latched, use the hand clutch to start moving. If you opened the gate with the PTO on, or lowered it with the PTO off, you'd mess up the belts.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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