Start out by adjusting the carburetor first. A real rich fuel mixture will make it do exactly what you are talking about. I would still check the spark plugs to see if they are fouled but adjust the carburetor first either way. If it is too rich it can foul new plugs fast.
I do them a little different than some on here have told you. I always adjust the load or high side first and then adjust the idle mixture an speed. I have found that this works the best. A too rich load will effect the idle more than a too rich idle will affect the load.
1) Get the tractor up to operating temperature.
2) The load adjustment is on the back of your carburetor. With the tractor running wide open slowly turn the adjusting screw in. Go in until the tractor starts to stumble/miss. Slowly open it back up until it runs smooth. Then depending on what you are doing or the temperature you need to open it a little more. In warm weather and light load I only go 1/2 turn after running smooth. Under heavy loads maybe 3/4 to 1 full turn. In cold weather you may have to go 1 turn out after smooth running even under light loads.
3) Now bring the tractor down to idle. Then adjust the idle mixture to get it to run smooth. This screw is at a 45 degree angle on the back top side of the carburetor. Takes a flat screw driver. Run the speed up and down a few time to see how it takes throttle. If it tries to die open the idle mixture screw 1/4 turn at a time.
4) If the idle speed is too high or low adjust it with the stop screw on the butterfly cross shaft.
You may have to repeat steps 2 & 3 several times to get it to run just right. You will have to play with the load adjustment as the weather changes and your load demands change. I usually ran them a little lean under light loads just to keep from fouling the spark plugs as much. Don't do this under heavy loads as it will make them run hot.
Now after you have adjusted the fuel mixture you check the ignition system out if you are still having problems. I would clean the points first making sure the rotor button and cap contacts where clean. Then go to timing if those don't get the job done.
Now my opinion on JD gas tractors. I don't own one with more than two cylinders any more. The six cylinders are not as bad but the 3 & 4 cylinder are horrible to keep running right. The 1020,2020,3020, 3010 and etc. are the worst things to keep going with this new gas. They either foul the plugs or will not take throttle. They also are hard to start hot. We never had these issues as bad until about ten years ago. Even with higher octane fuels they still are a head ache.
I worked a week on a JD 3020 gas. I never did get it to run correctly. I even changed the carburetor to one that ran well on another tractor. I replaced the complete ignition system with a known working one. I replace the intake gaskets. Checked the compression. I never did get it to start when hot unless you would wait 15-20 minutes. Then it would fire right off. You could run the battery flat when it was hot and it would not start. When it got cold outside you could not make it run right. Either black smoked or would miss and stumble. I eat the repair bill as I did not make it any better. The guy took it to several other guys and none of them could get it to run right either. He finally changed the engine to a diesel one. Sold the other one to a salvage yard. I hope they did not sell it as a complete motor.
I had a JD 4010 gas I used on my feeder wagon. I got to have to change the plugs once a month to keep it where it would start and run. I finally sold it and bought a diesel. I will gladly keep a diesel plugged in the winter as having to mess with a gas year round!!!
The other gas tractors don't seem as bad. The IH run fine. The little Fords do well but the JD bigger ones are a nightmare.
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