Yeah, I'd bite the bullet and do it right the first time. I built mine and had limited parts. Used the hydraulics on a Ford 3000 which doesn't have a lot of pump volume even though it puts out over 2kpsig of pressure....Once I got a large enough cylinder on there, (rebuilt it a couple of times) not a 4" but a 3" I had on hand, it does pretty good, just takes forever.....obviously the larger the piston the more area has to be filled with fluid and the longer it takes.
On tough jobs, the top of the wedge is exposed, like the picture posted here, and I have a large sledge hammer which I give it a smack when the pump's pressure relief pops off. That helps.
I don't split all that much wood and didn't figure buying anything would justify the task.
One thing I did learn and that was to split it the way it grows...bottom to top. You can put a log on there the wrong way and nothing will happen; turn it around and presto.
Other thing is to have a sharp pointed entrance and after a couple of inches put a wedge on the blade. I notice some storebought units only have a sharpened piece of steel. I guess if you have a big piston and 2 stage pump that works ok, but for the cobbled up system, it doesn't work...it just goes down into the wood and sits there....no split.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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