Worked on an early 70's Ford cab over truck some years back with the same problem. In that instance it was a matter of the push rod from the brake to the master cyliner being just a touch too long. Turns out someone had lost/broke the one that was supposed to be in it and home made a new one. Being about 1/32 to 1/16 too long, if the peddle didn't return all the way to the bump stop, and stay here, the piston would partially block the release port. After a couple of times hitting the peddle to slow the truck, but not to actually stop, the brake would lock up. Once locked it would stay that way until it was given a few minutes to bleed off on it's own through the tiny bit of return port left open, or you crawled under and bled it at the wheel. Funny thing is after hitting the bump stop hard a few times, everything would sometimes work right as the rubber bumper would compress just enough to let the port be open enough to work, but without those hard hits it would screw up. Took a while to figure out what was going on with this whole problem but in the end a new, factory push rod solved the problem.
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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