You kind of have to feel your way through it don't you ? Hard to say being on the motor how much heat you can use if much at all to break any potentially seized bolts, if its just studs, as long as the threads are ok, can be chased, those just stay in place. The bolts if the heads are severely pitted, you know its bonded to the threads in the head or block, penetrating oil will mostly run off, now if'n you can turn the tractor on its side LOL !
I hate pondering this situation when you know you could deform the hex heads, easily snap one, only thing I learned with this is to take your time on each one, soon as you feel its going to round off, or really hard to turn, have to stop. Biggest thing I've found is to work both directions once it moves, little at a time.
I know what you fear, resorting to extractors, (hate those but they work when real careful or you had best stop before you snap one in place) welding a nut to the broken stud, without welding it to the block, counterclockwise drill bits, drilling out the center or even blowing out the center with a properly fitted cutting torch, me thinks its too much heat to try, so none of the above please LOL !!!
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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