I put one on a Troy-Bilt Horse rototiller that my neighbor gave me, to replace the B&S flathead that had blown the connecting rod out the side of the crankcase. Except for needing to buy some metric fasteners, it bolted right up and has worked just fine for two years. It always has started right up and seems to have plenty of power for the formerly 8 horsepower tiller. How long will it last? I don"t know, but for about a third of the price of an OHV B&S, I"ll sure try it.
On the tiller, the engine operates at an angle rather than being level. I had to disconnect the low oil shutdown switch to compensate for this and I run the unit with much more oil in the crankcase than it was probably designed for, to make sure there is plenty of oil around the crank when it needs to dip.
Some years ago, I bought a replacement 10 horsepower Tecumseh for another tiller. What a piece of junk! I could never get it to run right. The Harbor Freight engine is immensely better, in my opinion, and a heck of a good buy for that price. Good luck!
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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