Posted by MarkB_MI on November 19, 2012 at 02:33:19 from (75.219.101.187):
In Reply to: Radiant Floor Heat posted by edj856 on November 18, 2012 at 19:04:12:
The most important thing is to insulate around the perimeter. If you don't want to put foam under the floor due to cost and/or weight concerns, trench around the perimeter and put 2 inch foam down at least two feet. Even if you insulate under the slab, you'll want to put 2 inch insulation inside the skirt boards. (Miter the upper edge of the insulation and you'll be able to trowel your concrete over the insulation.)
Standard polystyrene insulation like you'll find at Home Depot is only 15 psi compressive strength. For slabs, you should try to find at least 40 psi. There are even higher strength planks; Dow Corning lists 60 and 100 psi versions, although I imagine they'll be difficult to obtain in the small quantity you need.
What I did with my slab to save cost was to only pour it four inches thick around the perimeter and six inches thick in the middle, using two inch thick insulation for the outer six feet and one inch inside. Most of your heat loss will be around the perimeter, and typically you won't be parking big vehicles along the walls. (The doorway was left six inches thick.)
To avoid breaking your water lines, figure out in advance where you'll cut your slab, and sheath the PEX at those points so the slab can move without cutting the tubing. I used a split corrugated tubing for this purpose.
Reinforcement is a must. I used wire mesh, but if I was to do it again I'd probably use rebar. The mesh is a hassle because you have to pull it up as you pour.
I purchased my PEX supplies from Mountain View Supply. This was several years ago, prices and service were good then.
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