Posted by markezekiel on January 04, 2013 at 20:17:37 from (172.5.188.232):
I had this idea about installing the 8N inlet and exhaust valves. Somebody tell me I'm mad because unless they do I'm going to try it. I'm going to cut a 3/8 tube about 3/4 in long, and then cut out the side of the tube so it will fit over the valve stem. Then I will assemble the valve, guide and spring plus collets etc in the vice. Then I will compress the spring so I can fit the split tube between guide and valve head, giving the spring some compression. I will put a plastic cable tie around the split tube and release the spring compression. I will then fit the assembly in the block with the valve tappet fully down, poking the end of the cable tie out the inlet/exhaust port. I will push the valve down by hand, meaning the retainer groove of the guide will be about 1/8 in below the surface of the block and I can fit the retainer easily. Then I will turn the engine so the retainer is hard on the block, plus a bit so valv sticks up from the block and the split tube is now loose. Cut the cable tie with box cutter in the inlet/exhaust port and pull off the split tube. Job done.
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Today's Featured Article - Upgrading an Oliver Super 55 Electrical System - by Dennis Hawkins. My old Oliver Super 55 has been just sitting and rusting for several years now. I really hate to see a good tractor being treated that way, but not being able to start it without a 30 minute point filing ritual every time contributed to its demise. If it would just start when I turn the key, then I would use it more often. In addition to a bad case of old age, most of the tractor's original electrical system was simply too unreliable to keep. The main focus of this page is to show how I upgr
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