From what I know about the history of the tractor, the rings I have removed are the original. After spending some time with a rigid cylinder hone, I have confirmed that the bore is indeed tapered. In an ideal world, I would have the block bored .045 over and install new pistons.
This tractor is primarily a cultivator tractor. I am changing the rings in an effort to balance the compression between cylinders and make it a little easier to start. I'm not trying to return the tractor to 'like new' condition, so a bit of blow-by is not a problem.
The pistons came without too much trouble. The #1 compression rings had a 1.5" end gap (one of the pistons actually still had broken bits of ring that had been rounded over floating in the groove). The other rings had about .350" end gap. Changing the rings will reduce the gap by 50%.
Pulling the block to have it rebored isn't financially feasible right now. The rigid hone reduced the ridge on the bottom of the bore, but it is still present on the top. Since I need the tractor back in operation for spring, I think I can either reinstall the old rings or find a way to get rid of the ridge. It sounds like the reamer might worth a try.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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