I am sure this will start an argument; however, I would advise that you size the replacement electric pump for a flow similar to the OEM pump. If you have bored the engine or otherwise increased the engines power output you should consider a higher flow rate.
Water carrys heat from the engine to the radiator where it is rejected to ambient air. It takes 8.33 btu of heat to increase the temperature of 1 gallon of water by 1 degree F. A higher flow rate will maintain your engine at a more even temperature. For example: Lets assume the OEM water pump has a flow rate of 1 gallon per minute and the engine rejects 833 btu per minute into the coolant water. The water will need to exit the engine at 100 degrees F hotter than it entered to carry away 833 btu per minute. Now if you reduce the flow rate to say 0.5 gallon per minute the water temperature has to increase to 200 degrees F to carry away the same btu each minute. A 200 degree temperature rise would likely result in boiling however it is also much too large a temperature variation throughout the engine block etc.
Cooling systems are continous flow, there is always water in the radiator - it does not have to sit there to cool down.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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